Tom's Opinion

When Welch’s squeezes grapes, you get grape juice. When Pavle Millic squeezes grapes, you get art. Art reflected in the stunning architecture of his winery’s tasting room / restaurant, art evidenced in the modern décor, furnishings, and fixtures of the nine beautiful guest casitas, and art embodied in every sip, glass, and bottle of his signature wines.

On our late July arrival, our drive through verdant rows of broad-leafed vines teeming with bountiful clusters of still-unripe grapes foreshadowed the imminent harvest and the production of another award-winning year of Los Milics Winery’s passionately produced wines.

As we progressed farther into the vineyard, past the entrance of the production winery, and around the bend to the parking area, we were suddenly struck by the unexpected and unusual architecture of the main building. Two tall rows of rectangular monolithic steel columns rise amidst the vines and define a wedge-shaped structure in complete contrast to their lush, leafy, organic roots.

And yet, a visual connection is instantly made between these columns and the earth from which they sprout, as their naturally evolving rusty surface is a near-perfect match to the ruddy ground from which the surrounding vines are maturing.

Entering the building for the first time, we were impressed by the visually modern, inviting décor reflecting elegance and exhibiting more than just a hint of functional art.

At the entrance to the tasting room, a modest desk was staffed by an energetic woman who welcomed us enthusiastically and then guided us to meet her at the entrance of our weekend casita located just east of the main building. A designated parking spot for each casita allowed us to park just steps from the front door of our unit at which our hostess was already turning the key in the lock.

Each casita (“little house”) is one of nine nearly identical buildings that are situated on the property as to provide unobstructed views from both the practically all-glass back wall and from the attached patio deck.  They overlook large swaths of the vineyard and the surrounding hills including the famous “biscuit” shaped mountain for which the Los Milics restaurant is named.

The casitas’ exteriors are clad with steel panels that were custom manufactured to echo the patina of the main building’s columns and to blend more naturally into the surrounding mineral-rich soil which is ultimately expressed in the character and flavor of the Los Milics wines, especially the darker red expressions.

Inside the casita, we were treated to a chilled welcoming half-bottle of a bright, perky Rosé that accompanied our hostess’ explanation of the casita’s features, lighting, cooling, and the utterly unique Ori Cloud Bed that lowers from the ceiling on-demand to transform the sofa seating area into a comfortable king-size bed. Equipped with dimmable lighting and push-button control, the bed is a unique feature of the extremely well-equipped modern styled casita.

A second Murphy bed folds out of the wall workstation at the other end of the living space, making for a comfortable 4-person occupancy if desired. In addition, the casita is equipped with a modern, workable kitchen area, a small well-stocked fridge, Nespresso coffee maker, and a beautifully appointed bathroom with a large walk-in shower featuring on-demand hot water and both wand and rain showerheads.

During our extended late-July weekend, temperatures in Elgin, AZ ranged from the mid-sixties to the mid-to-upper eighties, making the casitas’ rear deck particularly inviting for morning coffee and an evening glass of wine as the sun sets. Ample free Wi-Fi coverage allowed us to enjoy our Bluetooth speaker playing JazzGroove.org as we dined and sipped. Overall, we found the entire casita experience to be exemplary. The property was virtually silent at night and the skies so dark as to reveal a breathtaking multitude of stars.

Once settled and rested from the drive, we unpacked and prepared for our 6:00pm dinner reservation to which we purposely arrived a little early in the hopes of enjoying a wine at the bar while we waited for our table. To our delight, we were graciously seated immediately, and we were treated to a lovely table near the entirely glass front wall of the restaurant space offering a spectacular view of the vineyard and the “Biscuit” in the distance.

An impending thunderstorm provided an exciting, ever-changing backdrop to the scene as the setting sun enchantingly played with the light and distant lightning bolts punctuated the skies. In the absence of threatening weather, the entire glass wall disappears into the left jamb allowing for al fresco dining on the huge patio and lets vineyard breezes waft into the dining room for a delightful experience.

In anticipation of our celebratory anniversary dinner, we started slowly with an initial glass of wine accompanied by an order of fragrant freshly baked bread. Our server graciously and knowledgeably answered a dozen questions and brought small tastes of various bottles before I settled on a deep and complex red blend of Tempranillo, Graciano, and a hint of Grenache called “Renato’s”, which, as with all the wines at Los Milics, is named for a member of the extended winery family. My wife began with a Marsanne-forward white called “Hannah’s”.

My glass emitted a wonderfully appealing funkiness and minerality on the nose and exhibited mountains of dark fruit goodness, very contained tannins, and a huge finish. The white was a crisp and fresh delight that exhibited bright fruit in both the nose and in the palate.

These wines would be the first of an entire evening of samples and glasses, accompanying excellent food, that were slowly enjoyed as the sun set, the storm rolled in, and the evening exceeded both of our expectations.  A standout dish for me was the Boquerones with pickled vegetables from which every bite was a delight and for which a glass of “Hannah’s” was a perfect pairing.

The plate included slices of pickled fennel which released a heavenly combination of champagne vinegar and anise to flood the tongue with simultaneous acidity and sweetness, that lingered pleasantly through the next sip of the beautiful Marsanne. The star of the plate were the exquisitely prepared fish filets that released their umami with every bite to make each accompanying sip or morsel an unreserved delight.

The main course was a flank steak for me and grilled chicken on a bed of seasoned sweet potatoes and wilted greens for my wife, both of which were skillfully sauced and artfully presented.

The spectacular sunset that evening was captured by Ita Milic, who generously shared the picture with me from her phone. We had a lovely conversation with her about the vineyard property and the joys of the Southern Arizona high desert climate and scenery.

As the evening wound down, a few more glasses of wine were enjoyed as we lingered over the stunning views which had provided for an artist’s palette of changing colors in a sometimes-angry sky that would eventually provide a brief, but heavy thunderstorm around midnight after we were comfortably ensconced back in our casita.

The next morning dawned cool and mostly clear, with a crisp sky sunning the grapes after their midnight shower, a cycle that is often repeated this time of year, and one which generously benefits their development. In a couple of months when the clusters become large and tightly compacted, if too much hard rain penetrates the interior of the bunches and becomes trapped, it can potentially cause damaging decay or mold, but for now rain and sun are welcome friends.

In the morning, provided coffee, yogurt, and sweet blueberry muffins supplied us with a leisurely patio breakfast as the night’s storm water still rhythmically dripped from the roof as a staccato accompaniment to birdsongs carried on the gentle breeze that rapidly dissipated the lingering clouds.

We set off to explore the surrounding area’s gentle hills and tiny communities, stopping at a few local businesses and enjoying the well-maintained scenic roads between stops. Numerous curves and high speed limits on local roads require your attention, but the sparse traffic is a welcome contrast to the busy roads of the Tucson and Phoenix areas.

We returned to Los Milics in early afternoon and visited the tasting room for a bite of lunch and to enjoy a few more of their engaging wines paired with the food. As we had already booked a dinner reservation that evening, a light lunch was called for and the kitchen readily accepted our request to split a fabulous Croque Monsieur served on freshly baked focaccia and oozing a generous layer of soft unctuous cheese on a layer of smoky ham.

As with last night’s dinner, the knowledgeable server expertly suggested wine pairings, which added significantly to our enjoyment of this leisurely lunch in the busy tasting room that would later be transformed into the Biscuit Restaurant for dinner by the time we returned.

As we presented ourselves at the entrance to be seated for dinner, we were greeted by a convivial host, whose enthusiasm about the winery was infectious and welcome. As he guided us to our seats, he introduced himself as none other than the vintner himself, Pavle Milic. I was momentarily dumbstruck. Here was the visionary that conceived this estate, took the giant risk, and brought this winery, restaurant, tasting room, production space, casitas, and acres of beautiful grapes to fruition, casually seating us for dinner as if there was nothing to it. Here was the artist himself, in his studio, living his art.

That night’s dining experience consisted, as before, of beautifully plated meals accompanied by selected varietal wines, each made from the very vines that stretched into the distance from every window and view from the restaurant and providing a nuanced glimpse into the plethora of flavors, textures, colors, and smells that simple grapes can be transformed into at the hands of skilled artisans.

Today, the room’s glass wall was fully open, and the warm breeze brought the beautiful evening to our table, causing us to linger over “just one more glass” to beyond closing time.

When we finally tore ourselves away, we engaged our gracious host and vintner in a short conversation and experienced another taste of his vision, dedication, and expertise. It is no wonder that Los Milics provides the Sonoita AVA (American Viticulture Area, the first in Arizona) with an award-winning, completely unique, and immersive oenophile experience.

On our next day, we ventured to nearby Bisbee to see what was once one of the world’s most productive copper mines and to experience a thriving community that appears to be tentatively glued to the sides of a mountain. With a busy tourist trade and a vibrant “Old Town,” Bisbee is a worthwhile day trip from Elgin. Other nearby attractions include the Patagonia area with mountain trails and scenery and home of the 2658-acre Patagonia Lake State Park, offering a plethora of outdoor recreational activities.

Our last night at Los Milics allowed us to round out our library with fabulous wines, as the winery carefully packaged some bottles we had selected to take home. As we had, once again, lingered late in the dining room, our server, Kyle, ever-so-graciously carried the box of treasures to our casita as it was, by then, dark and I was not as sure-footed as maybe I should have been and probably would have been before the evening’s festivities.

The total experience that we enjoyed at Los Milics Winery over our long weekend was memorable, enjoyable, revelatory, and unique. Every member of the staff, from the friendly and attentive busser to the casual, but professional, maître d’ performed their services enthusiastically and capably, often exceeding expectations. They are intensely customer focused and attentive and seemingly unflappable.

Pavle Millic and his charming wife are exceptionally accommodating hosts, who together, have created a total experience that is one of a kind in the beautiful and romantic Southern Arizona wine country. Their winery, restaurant, and casitas meld to create an immersive experience that delights the senses as you inhale the freshest air, see the blanket of stars in the darkest sky, and taste the literal fruits of their labor-of-love in the variety of stunning wines that they have managed to magically extract from squeezed grapes.